January 13, 2004
Recent Developments in the Geomorphic Investigation
Fig. 16. Comparison of energy distribution acquired by PUV and ADCP type wave gauges (adapted
from Rrbk and Andersen, 1997).
Fig. 17. Relative energy as a function of the wave direction derived from a PUV type sensor and
an RDI 1200 kHz ADCP unit (adapted from Rrbk and Andersen, 1997).
and very useful in the coastal regions of moderate to low topographic relief. Accurate
measurements of shoreline position, dune vegetation, and overall geomorphic change
can be made and compared over time when adequate temporal and spatial cov-
erage is available. Methodology for calculating sediment budgets, analyzing inlet