1084
S.A. Hughes / Coastal Engineering 51 (2004) 10671084
Burcharth, H.F., Hughes, S.A., 2002. Fundamentals of design. In:
zs
vertical coordinate directed positive upward
Hughes, S.A. (Ed.), Coastal Engineering Manual, Part VI, Design
with origin at the sea floor
of Coastal Project Elements, Chapter VI-5, Engineer Manual
1110-2-1100. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, DC.
Greek
Symbols
De Waal, J.P., Van der Meer, J.W., 1992. Wave Runup and
a
beach or structure slope
Overtopping on Coastal Structures. Proceedings of the 23rd
International Coastal Engineering Conference vol. 2. American
D
armor unit immersed relative density
Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1758 1771.
g
instantaneous sea surface elevation relative to
Fenton, J.D., 1988. The numerical solution of steady water wave
still water level
problems. Computers & Geosciences vol. 14. Pergamon Press,
gs
instantaneous sea surface elevation relative to
Great Britain, pp. 357 368.
the sea floor
Hudson, R.Y., 1959. Laboratory investigation of rubble-
mound breakwaters. Journal of the Waterways and Harbors
l
coefficient of dynamic viscosity
Division vol. 85 (WW3). American Society of Civil Engineers,
m
coefficient of kinematic viscosity
pp. 93 121.
n
local Iribarren number (surf similarity
Hughes, S.A., 2004. Estimation of wave runup on smooth, imperme-
parameter)
able slopes using the wave momentum flux parameter. Coastal
no
deepwater Iribarren number
Engineering. in press [doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.07.026].
Hunt, I.A., 1959. Design of seawalls and breakwaters. Journal of the
p
mathematical Pi
Waterways and Harbors Division vol. 85 (WW3). American
q
mass density of water
Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 123 152.
x
Iribarren, C.R., Nogales, C., 1949. Protection des Ports. XVIIth
International Navigation Congress, Section II. Communication,
pp. 31 80.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Stewart, R.W., 1964. Radiation stresses in
Acknowledgements
water waves: a physical discussion, with applications. Deep-Sea
Research vol. 11. Pergamon Press, Great Britain, pp. 529 562.
The research described and the results presented
Melby, J.A., Hughes, S.A., 2003. Armor stability based on wave
herein, unless otherwise noted, were obtained from
momentum flux. Proceedings of Coastal Structures '03 Confer-
research funded through the Scour Holes at Inlet
ence, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York.
Rienecker, M.M., Fenton, J.D., 1981. A Fourier approximation
Structures work unit of the Coastal Inlets Research
method for steady water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics vol.
Program at the US Army Engineer Research and
104. Cambridge Univ. Press, United Kingdom, pp. 119 137.
Shore Protection Manual, 1984. U.S. Army Engineer Waterways
ratory (CHL). Permission was granted by Head-
Experiment Station. (4th ed.), U.S. Government Printing Office,
quarters, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, to publish
Washington, DC.
Smith, S.F., Swan, C., 2002. Extreme two-dimensional water waves:
this information.
an assessment of potential design solutions. Ocean Engineering
Special thanks to Prof. Rodney J. Sobey, Imperial
vol. 29. Pergamon Press, Great Britain, pp. 387 416.
College London, for providing his Fourier approx-
Sobey, R.J., 1989. Variations on Fourier wave theory. International
imation theory and local Fourier approximation theory
Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids vol. 9. John Wiley &
source codes. The author is especially indebted to the
Sons, pp. 1453 1467.
Sobey, R.J., 1992. A local Fourier approximation method for
journal reviewers for their useful suggestions and
irregular wave kinematics. Applied Ocean Research vol. 14.
encouragement.
Elsevier Science, The Netherlands, pp. 93 105.
Sobey, R.J., 1998. Nonlinear Wave Theory, Short Course Notes,
U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Coastal
References
and Hydraulics Laboratory, Vicksburg MI. January 1998.
Wiegel, R.L., 1964. Oceanographical Engineering. Prentice Hall,
Englewood Cliffs, NJ.
Archetti, R., Brocchini, M., 2002. An integral swash zone model
Williams, J.M., 1985. Tables of Progressive Gravity Waves. Pitman,
with friction: an experimental and numerical investigation.
Boston, MA.
Coastal Engineering vol. 45. Elsevier, pp. 89 110.
Battjes, J.A., 1974. Surf Similarity. Proceedings of the 14th
International Coastal Engineering Conference vol. 1. American
Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 466 480.