Abstract submitted to Waves 2001
Physical Modeling Session
ASCE
breaking occurs.
The experimental setup included a wave generator located in 30-cm depth, parallel to the shoreline
and perpendicular to the ebb current flowing from the inlet. A co-linear gauge array of six capacitance
placement line, collected the measurement data. These instruments were mounted on a portable rack.
SELECTED RESULTS
Figure 2 shows the cross-shore bathymetry profile and wave gauge locations. Figure 3 shows results
of the wave height variation for incident wave height of 5.5 cm, peak period of 0.7 sec, and current speed
of 16 cm/sec. The 1:1.45 scaled wave heights are plotted in the same figure. The results indicate good
agreement in the wave height across the ebb shoal (cross-shore distance 300-800 cm). The heights in the
flat channel (cross-shore distance > 800 cm) show poorer agreement because the depth is not scaled and
the current distribution in the channel varies somewhat between cases. The full paper will present a range
of scale comparisons and discussion of the capability and limitations of physical models to scale wave-
current interaction and breaking.
6
Cross-shore Distance (cm)
0
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5
Ebb shoal region
Inlet channel
5
6
5
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4
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12
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Offshore region
3
3
15
2
2
20
Run 63, H=5.5 cm, T=0.7 s, U=16 cm/s
25
1
Run 198, 1.45 scale
30
0
1
0
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35
Cross-shore Distance (cm)
Figure 3. Wave heights for Runs 63 and
Figure 2. Laboratory cross-shore depth
198
profile and gauge locations (1-12)
Presenter: William Seabergh
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