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Costal Inlets Research Program
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> Fig. 3. Local linear theory Zmarkers. and global Fourier theory Zsolid lines. predictions for Record `Twenty'.
A local linear analysis cont'd
A local nonlinear analysis
SobeyHughes99
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R.J.
Sobey,
S.A.
Hughes
r
Coastal
Engineering 36 (1999)
1736
23
Table
1
Sample
theoretical
waves
H
h
T
U
1
U
2
z
P
z
UV
Wave
Five
3m
5m
10 s
y1.902
y0.618
y5.0 m
y5.0 m
Twenty
10 m
20 m
10 s
y0.951
y0.309
y10.0 m
y10.0 m
Hundred
20 m
100 m
10 s
y0.478
y0.155
y20.0 m
y20.0 m
The
predicted
water
surface
elevation
and
wave
number
components
from
the
local
linear
algorithm
are
shown
in Fig. 3 as
the
markers,
together
with
the
near-exact
predictions
from
global
Fourier
wave
theory
as
the
solid
lines.
Solutions
to
Eq.
Z14. at
times
in
the
immediate
neighborhood
of
the
zero-
crossings
were
difficult
to
obtain,
and
required
initial
solution
estimates
that
were
almost
exact.
For
this
`
wave
transitional'
situation,
a solution
was
obtained
throughout.
It is
smooth
and
visually
convincing,
except
when
compared
with
the
near-exact
predictions.
There
is
order
of
magnitude
agreement
only.
The
crest
elevation
in
particular
is poorly
predicted.
Some
variations
on
the
locally
linear
formulation may
achieve
a
more
acceptable
and
perhaps
also
more
robust
local
solution,
but
the
indications
are
not
encouraging.
Eliminating
h
between
the
f
2
and
both
the
f
3
and
f
4
equations
gives:
r
g
cosh
k
Z
h q
z
P
.
k
a
Z
v y
k
a
U
a
.
s
Z
u
abs
y
U
a
.
obs
o
tanh
kh
.
Z
16
.
k
p
d
cosh
k
Z
h q
z
UV
.
Fig.
3.
Local
linear
theory Zmarkers.
and
global
Fourier
theory Z
solid
lines
. predictions for Record
`Twenty'.
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