Longshore Distance
y
Cga
Cgr
β
U
δ
W
α
ϕ
Cross-Shore Distance
x
Figure 1. Definition sketch for waves propagating on current
associated with it) implying that δ can vary from 180 to 180 deg. The
waves are assumed to always propagate towards the beach, which means that
90 <α <90 deg and that opposing currents are directed offshore and
following currents onshore.
Whether in a relative or absolute frame of reference, the wavelength L
should be the same. Thus, the relative wave period Tr and absolute period Ta
are given by:
L
Tr =
(3)
Cr
L
Ta =
(4)
Ca
Also, it may be noted that in a moving frame of reference, the relative phase
speed may be derived directly from the selected wave theory without a
current, yielding the following expression if linear wave theory is employed,
1/ 2
g
Cr = tanh kd
(5)
k
12
Chapter 3 Wave Model