1102
S.A. Hughes / Coastal Engineering 51 (2004) 10851104
nom
MF
depth-integrated wave momentum flux across a
deepwater Iribarren number based on Tm and
unit width
local H1/3
nop
(MF)max maximum depth-integrated wave momen-
deepwater Iribarren number based on Tp and
tum flux across a unit width
local Hmo
nV p
N
coefficient for solitary wave theory (function of
deepwater Iribarren number based on Tp and
o
H/h)
local H1/3
p
P
exceedence probability
mathematical PI
Pd
instantaneous wave dynamic pressure at a
j
wave function in run-up formula
q
specified position
mass density of water
dimensionless water depth [=x2h/g]
x
circular wave frequency [=2p/T]
r
R
maximum vertical run-up from SWL
R
mean wave run-up elevation
Rmax maximum wave run-up elevation
Acknowledgements
RP
wave run-up elevation associated with exceed-
ence probability, P
The research described and the results presented
Rs
significant wave run-up elevation
herein, unless otherwise noted, were obtained from
RX
wave run-up elevation associated with different
research funded through the Scour Holes at Inlet
elevations
Structures work unit of the Coastal Inlets Research
Ru2% wave run-up elevation exceeded by highest 2%
Program at the US Army Engineer Research and
of run-ups
Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Labo-
R1/3 average of the highest 1/3 wave run-up
ratory (CHL). Permission was granted by Head-
elevations
quarters, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, to publish
R1/10 average of the highest 1/10 wave run-up
this information.
elevations
Special thanks to John P. Ahrens for so kindly
Sxx wave-averaged momentum flux (also known as
providing his original irregular wave run-up data.
radiation stress)
Beneficial reviews of the earliest draft were provided
t
time
by Dr. Rodney J. Sobey, Imperial College London,
T
wave period
and Professor Robert L. Wiegel, University of
Tp
wave period associated with the spectrum peak
California at Berkeley. The author is especially
indebted to the journal reviewers for their useful
Tm
mean wave period in irregular wave train
suggestions and encouragement.
u
instantaneous horizontal water velocity at a
specified position
W(ABC) weight of water per unit crest width in area
ABC
References
x
horizontal coordinate positive in the direction
of wave propagation
Ahrens, J.P., 1981. bIrregular wave runup on smooth slopes,Q CETA
Xp
depth function in run-up formula
No. 81-17, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering
Research Center, Ft. Belvoir, VA.
z
vertical coordinate directed positive upward
Ahrens, J.P., Seelig, W.N., Ward, D.L., Allsop, W., 1993. Wave
with origin at the SWL
runup on and wave reflection from coastal structures.
Proceedings of Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis
Greek symbols
(Waves '93) Conference. American Society of Civil Engineers,
a
beach or structure slope
pp. 489 502.
Archetti, R., Brocchini, M., 2002. An integral swash zone model
g
instantaneous sea surface elevation relative to
with friction: an experimental and numerical investigation.
still water level
Coastal Engineering, vol. 45. Elsevier, pp. 89 110.
h
unknown angle between still water level and
Battjes, J.A., 1974a. Surf similarity. Proceedings of the 14th
run-up water surface
International Coastal Engineering Conference, vol. 1. American
no
deepwater Iribarren number
Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 466 480.
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